Turkish Köfte

Köfte is the weeknight meat dish of the Turkish kitchen: ground meat, grated onion, and a spoonful each of pepper paste and tomato paste, kneaded until it holds together and cooked hot and fast. This is the plain version, the one that gets made most often.

What separates Turkish köfte from a plain meatball is the paste. A tablespoon each of pepper paste and tomato paste goes into the mix itself, not into a sauce poured over afterward. The meat cooks with that flavor already inside it, which is why köfte needs no gravy and tastes finished straight off the heat.

Two steps do most of the work and both are easy to skip. Knead the mixture properly, for three to five full minutes, until it turns sticky and slightly tacky rather than crumbly. Then chill the shaped patties for half an hour. The first gives köfte its dense, springy bite; the second keeps them from falling apart on the grill.

Ingredients (serves 4)

• 1 lb ground beef or lamb, or a mix of the two
• 1 tablespoon pepper paste
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 small onion, grated and drained
• 2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 to 3 tablespoons breadcrumbs
• 1 egg
• A quarter bunch parsley, chopped
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 teaspoon Maraş chili flakes
• Salt to taste

Method

1. In a large bowl, combine the ground meat, grated onion, garlic, breadcrumbs, egg, parsley, pepper paste, tomato paste, and all the spices.
2. Knead the mixture well for 3 to 5 minutes, until it turns sticky and fully combined. This is what develops the texture, so do not cut it short.
3. Shape the mixture into small oval patties.
4. Cover and refrigerate the shaped köfte for 30 minutes to firm up and let the flavors settle.
5. Grill over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes per side, or pan-fry in a little oil over medium heat until browned and cooked through, about 4 to 5 minutes per side.

Notes

Drain the grated onion properly. Onion holds more water than it looks like it does, and wet mixture spreads in the pan instead of holding its shape. Squeeze it in a clean cloth or press it in a sieve before it goes in.

Maraş flakes are milder and fruitier than standard crushed red pepper, so a full teaspoon reads as warmth rather than heat. If you are substituting ordinary chili flakes, start with half.

Köfte is usually served with rice or bulgur pilav, a tomato and onion salad, and yogurt on the side.

Keep Reading

Bulgur pilav, the standard side for köfte, built on the same two pastes. And kısır, the cold bulgur salad that rounds out the same table.